Okay, I was going to keep my mouth shut but I really suck at doing that. Death Note is a wonderful anime. Yes, it's dark. Yes, it's morbid. Yes, it's bizarre. But those aren't bad things. I like the anime (because of all those things! ) and I like the manga that it's based on, as well. The writing is amazing. It's multi-layered and complex. This is not a storyline where you can easily anticipate what lies around the corner. Messianic and Utopian themes are very dominant in this story. But again, that doesn't present a problem. They're used to show how even good and true intentions can be corrupted. Also, I think, to show the thin line between good and evil sometimes.
The characters are weird but intriguing, at least to me. They're also flawed. It adds a depth to them that's rarely found in shows these days. Even Light, who on the surface, appears to be perfect. He begins this crusade with the best intentions. But he's the living embodiment of how power corrupts, and in his case, how it can drive you freaking nuts.
To me, the struggle between Light and L takes is fascinating to watch. And honestly, I was surprised that the writers would have the balls to kill off such a central character. But they did then they picked up the storyline and moved on. I will admit that I'm not as big as a fan of the later stuff but I still love it overall.
I never really picked up on the traces of yaoi that you're talking about but my mind doesn't seem to work that way. I have terrible gaydar! lol I know that any anime with a lot of male characters, especially attractive male characters, interacting closely is going to spawn a rabid yaoi fangirl brigade. This one's no different.
If you don't like Death Note, I can understand. It's not everyone's cup of tea. But trust me, it's nowhere near the darkest or most bizarre anime that I've ever seen! lol You might be interested in the original, one-shot manga written for it. It's very different than the later one or the anime that was developed from it. ( http://www.onemanga.com/Death_Note/0/ ) But then again, you might hate it too! B) The only character to really survive in it's second incarnation was Ryuk, your apple loving shinigami.
Oh, and FLCL rocks too!